Eastern Sulawesi Off-the-Beaten-Path: Kendari to Wakatobi

The eastern arm of Sulawesi — Southeast Sulawesi province, anchored by Kendari and reaching out to Wakatobi and Buton — gets a fraction of the visitor attention of the south and north. The Wakatobi resort circuit excepted, almost nobody covers the wider region. The trip rewards travellers willing to engage: Buton Sultanate history, the volcanic island of Wawonii, the ferry passages through the Banda Sea, and a Wakatobi visit on the local rather than resort circuit.

This is a 14-day itinerary through eastern Sulawesi for travellers who've done the standard south-and-north loop and want a quieter, less-documented region.

The premise

The trip uses Kendari as the entry point and works east and south through the connected islands. Most travellers fly in to Kendari, take ferries and short flights through the region, and exit either via Wakatobi, which has flights to Kendari and Denpasar, or via Buton onward.

The principal stops:

• Kendari. The Southeast Sulawesi capital.
• Wawonii Island. The volcanic island off Kendari.
• Bau-Bau (Buton). The old Sultanate of Buton.
• Wakatobi. Hoga, Tomia — the local circuit, not the resort.
• Optional: Banggai Archipelago — the longer eastern extension.

A 14-day itinerary

Days 1–2: Kendari.

• Arrive via flight from Makassar.
• Fish market at dawn on Day 2.
• Harbour walk on Kendari Bay in the afternoon.
• Sinonggi (sago) dinner at a Tolaki restaurant.

Days 3–5: Wawonii Island.

• Ferry from Kendari to Wawonii (3 hours).
• Two nights at a small local guesthouse.
• Walking, beaches, the small volcanic peaks.
• Quiet; almost no other visitors.

Days 6–7: Bau-Bau (Buton).

• Ferry from Kendari to Bau-Bau (overnight ferry, 10 hours).
• Two nights in Bau-Bau.
• The old Sultanate fort, Benteng Keraton Buton.
• Some of the most preserved early-Islamic architecture in eastern Indonesia.

Days 8–9: Buton to Wakatobi.

• Day 8: Ferry or flight from Bau-Bau to Wangi-Wangi.
• Day 9: Wangi-Wangi orientation. Public ferry to Kaledupa and Hoga.

Days 10–12: Hoga (Wakatobi).

• Three days at a Hoga homestay.
• Diving or snorkelling from the homestay.
• Bajau village visit at Sampela.

Day 13: Hoga to Tomia.

• Ferry transfer (90 min).
• Independent operator diving at Roma or Cornucopia.

Day 14: Tomia to home.

• Ferry to Wangi-Wangi.
• Flight Wangi-Wangi → Kendari or Denpasar → onward.

What this trip skips

Compared to the standard Wakatobi resort trip:

• The Wakatobi resort itself. The trip is around the resort, not through it.
• The premium charter flight from Bali.
• The all-inclusive structure.

Compared to the standard Sulawesi loop:

• The northern peninsula entirely. Save for a separate trip.
• Tana Toraja. This is an eastern-region trip.
• Makassar beyond a transit night.

Why this trip is interesting

A few things this region offers that the standard circuit doesn't:

Buton history. The Sultanate of Buton ruled this corner of eastern Indonesia from the fifteenth century onward, with substantial maritime trade reach. The Bau-Bau fort and surrounding cultural sites preserve a Southeast Indonesian Islamic history that almost no foreign visitors encounter.

Wawonii. Volcanic, forested, with a small population. The kind of "real Indonesian island" that the over-developed circuit destinations no longer represent.

Wakatobi locally. Same reefs as the resort visits, fraction of the cost, much more contact with the Bajau and Wakatobi communities. A different shape of trip.

The ferry rhythm. This trip uses 4–5 ferry passages of various durations. The slow Indonesian inter-island shipping experience is part of the trip rather than a friction to minimise.

Accommodation

Modest across the region:

• Kendari: Swiss-Belhotel or Plaza Inn, €24–€43.
• Wawonii: Basic homestays, €10–€17.
• Bau-Bau: Small hotels, €17–€24.
• Wangi-Wangi: Mid-range hotels, €19–€29.
• Hoga and Tomia: Homestays, €19–€29 including meals.

No resort options for most of the trip. Plan accordingly.

Budget

For one traveller, 14 days at the mid-range standard:

• Accommodation: €285–€380.
• Food: €120.
• Internal flights (Makassar–Kendari, and Wangi-Wangi–Kendari or Denpasar), an estimate: €215.
• Ferries: €70.
• Diving at Hoga and Tomia: €240–€335.
• Local transport and incidentals: €70.

Total: €1,000–€1,200, excluding international flights.

When to go

September to November is the practical window. August to October has the least rain. October and November have the calmest sea. From June to August the open sea off Kendari and Wakatobi is rough: off Wakatobi, waves reach 1.25 m 15% of the time in June. Ferry reliability deteriorates in the December–March wet season.

September and October are the optimal months.

Who this trip is for

A few honest filters:

Works for:

• Travellers on their second or third Sulawesi visit.
• Travellers comfortable with basic accommodation.
• Divers who want Wakatobi without the resort cost.
• History-focused travellers (Buton specifically).
• Travellers wanting "real" Indonesia after a curated Bali trip.

Doesn't work for:

• First-time Sulawesi visitors (do the standard loop instead).
• Travellers requiring high-comfort accommodation.
• Tight-schedule travellers (the ferries don't run to a strict timetable).
• Non-divers (much of the trip is structured around diving).

A note on the ferries

The Indonesian inter-island ferry network across this region is functional but slow and unpredictable. Build buffer days into the trip. Don't plan flights tightly against ferry arrivals.

The overnight ferry between Kendari and Bau-Bau is a real experience. Book a cabin if you can; the deck class is rough but workable for travellers comfortable with that mode.

Bau-Bau in more depth

For travellers willing to extend the Bau-Bau stop:

• Benteng Keraton Buton is one of the largest masonry forts in eastern Indonesia, built by the Sultanate of Buton from the late sixteenth century.
• The Sultan's palace preserves royal regalia and manuscripts.
• The Buton sarong workshops produce a distinctive striped cotton.
• The Wakaaka beach is a quiet local beach used by Buton families.

A four-night Bau-Bau extension would not be wasted on this trip.

What this trip leaves for the future

After completing this eastern circuit, the natural continuations:

• The Banggai Archipelago (extends from Wakatobi via long ferry).
• The Sangihe-Talaud archipelagos north of Manado.
• The full Maluku islands east of Sulawesi.

A traveller serious about eastern Indonesia can build several years of trips on this base.

What's the off-the-beaten-path eastern Sulawesi route? A 14-day Southeast Sulawesi trip from Kendari to Wakatobi via Wawonii Island and Bau-Bau (Buton). Covers the old Sultanate of Buton, volcanic Wawonii, and Wakatobi's Hoga and Tomia islands on the local (rather than resort) circuit. Best for second or third Sulawesi visits. Uses ferries and short flights; budget €1,000–€1,200 per person.